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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.